The allure of SMDA is hard to deny. The colonial-era city is nestled in a valley northwest of Mexico City at just over 6,000 feet. Its elaborate baroque Spanish architecture and thriving arts scene attract many North American expats and tourists from the US and Mexico. Cobblestone streets pave the historic center with its narrow lanes and alleys. Charm exudes from the brightly painted buildings hovering over these roads. It’s rarely clear what is housed behind the thick stucco walls but there are lots of delightful surprises if you poke a head through an open door or glance into a hotel entry.

We had six days to enjoy this lovely town and we didn’t waste a moment. The weather was very mild with afternoon highs in the upper 70s. As a community of many expats it has become a cultural center for Americans interested in maintaining a comfortable, social lifestyle.

The architectural highlight – and photogenic gem – is the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, visible from the surrounding hills and much of town. Impressive as it is, particularly in the dawn and evening light, we discovered the interior in need of repair. Nonetheless, the Catholic influence in town is strong and include many relics to admire with locations for the worship of any religion. Click on a photo to enlarge and scroll through this gallery.

Dining in San Miguel offers so many options, it was difficult to choose. We experienced only one unimpressive meal. Everything else was extraordinary, but Gringo-Mex was not the cuisine we aspired to try. At this time of year, a booking was usually necessary. And we always allowed time for a sundowner before dinner. The rooftop bars become super crowded from about 5:30 pm with sunset around 6:30 in early February. We found that ice cubes with a hole through them mean they are made with filtered water. Luckily, we never experienced any Montezuma’s revenge during our entire stay. Click on the individual photo to see a full-size view.

A little music to accompany our lunch

Many accomodations are designer styled and warrant high pricetags. But the level of charm and service is often a bargain compared to some upscale destinations in other countries. Again, a click on each photo is recommended.

The Toy Museum is a delightful spot to wile away an afternoon. The variety and color of the various pieces are amazing to study with wonder. Notice the itsy-bitsy miniatures in the box barely the size of a thumb (middle, top row).

A 30-min Uber north of SMDA, the 18th-century Sanctuary of Atononilco, aka The Sistine Chapel of Mexico, is worth a visit to view the detailed vivid and graphic murals depicting scenes from the bible which adorn the nave and chapels. The smaller chapel has been meticulously restored and deserves the most attention. Three exceptional alcoves house sculptures of the death, crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus Christ. We took the el cheapo bus back as a reminder we aren’t too good for a local bus — US$10 cheaper.

The Mask Museum is also a splendidly decorated B&B with masks displayed throughout. The host is the curator of an exquisite collection of native masks from indigenous cultures all over Mexico (located in a building at the rear). He is a wealth of information and shares his knowledge in an entertaining manner. For a small “donation” we were allowed access to the entire property and admired his exceptional home.

Mojigangas, giant-size paper-mache puppets, are a common feature of San Miguel life. Created by Hermes Arroyo, he crafts giant figures of brides, grooms and other icons. His workshop is open to visitors most days for a few hours. A seven-foot puppet takes 3 weeks to construct and 4 people to paint, produce and sew it. Puppeteers cruise the Jardin de Allende on a daily basis instilling delight in people of all ages.

Widely considered the most photogenic street in San Miguel, Aldama (above) is especially lovely during the late afternoon light. There are many simply stunning laneways, streetscapes, and village scenes that endeared us to this lovely town. Below is a sampling of what captured our oohs and aahhhs every day of our visit.

The performing arts scene is alive and well in San Miguel with concerts, theatre and mariachis who appear regularly around the central Jardin. The library is also a community center and includes a small concert hall, a theatre for locally written, acted and produced performances; as well as public spaces for group gatherings. We enjoyed an afternoon touring two splendid casas whose owners welcome the opportunity to show off the lifestyle of the upper crust who reside here.

More local flavor abounds around the historical center of town.

Innovative and entrepreneurial knife sharpener

San Miguel de Allende is accessible by air through Mexico City, Leon and Queretaro, but some bus or taxi rides are inevitable from each. English is widely spoken except in some shops and markets that are not frequented by tourists. The rainy season is between June and August and the hottest months are May & June. The best months to visit are November to April but nights become chilly at this altitude so packing layers is a good idea.